Creative Mind: Daniel Roseberry
The artistic director of Schiaparelli is pushing the boundaries of what couture can be
It’s been only two years since Daniel Roseberry was appointed the artistic director of Schiaparelli, but he has already made an indelible mark on the storied French brand. The Texas native presented one of the most headline-garnering collections during Paris Couture Week in January. Balancing the past with the present, it was a tribute to the experimental spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli. Thanks to her close friendship and collaboration with the likes of Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, and Jean Cocteau, the house boasts a treasure-filled archive of Surrealist jewelry, which Roseberry has looked to for inspiration since he took over. The resulting looks embodied strength and power over prettiness and whimsy.
The new guard: Head-turning creations included a hooded black silk dress with a metallic gold resin Madonna and Child breastplate and a molded-leather minidress complete with defined abs. “Who says what couture has to be?” wrote Roseberry in his collection notes. “I want to make an alternative couture house: Here, the fantasy isn’t princess dresses or polite garments; here, the fantasy is within.”
Technical know-how: Respecting the savoir faire that is haute couture, Roseberry highlights the skill of the artisan, particularly with intricate embroidery and embellishments. “The word magic is often used when discussing couture, and it is magical. But behind the magic is a human hand and a human dedication.”
Famous fan: Lady Gaga wore a custom-designed silk ball skirt, cashmere jacket, and golden dove brooch from the brand to this year’s presidential inauguration. s
A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2021 Spring Issue under the headline “Creative Minds.” Subscribe to the magazine.