Meet High Jeweler Emmanuel Tarpin, De Grisogono’s New Artist-in-Residence
At just 27 years old, Paris-based designer Emmanuel Tarpin has already risen to prominence in the world of haute joaillerie with exquisite bijoux that break free from convention with bold silhouettes, layered textures, and unexpected stone compositions. He studied at the esteemed Geneva School of Art and Design before honing his craft at Van Cleef & Arpels’s high jewelry workshop. He begins with a sketch before crafting a maquette in paper or wax. “I am highly sensitive to color, so I handpick every stone,” says Tarpin, who launched his namesake line in 2017. “Each one-of-a-kind piece requires a lot of experimentation.”
Artistic inspirations: “British sculptor Andy Goldsworthy is a big influence. I’m also drawn to the movement in an Alexander Calder mobile, for example, or the optical effects of a Bridget Riley painting. Then there are Dan Flavin and James Turrell.”
Design philosophy: “It is all about contrasts, from the color gradients; textures of polished, matte, and brushed aluminum; or the shape of the piece versus its lightness. I love the idea of wearing high jewelry without feeling its weight. It has to be precious yet wearable.”
Up next: De Grisogono recently announced that the jewelry designer is the 2019-2020 Artist in Residence of the Maison. Tarpin will reinterpret the codes of the storied jewelry house through a capsule collection.
A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2019 Late Fall issue under the headline “Hidden Gems.” Subscribe to the magazine.